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By January 1, 2023, SEER2 product regulations will be in full effect. With new testing procedures, limited sell-through opportunities.
To meet SEER2 requirements in the southwest region, residential central air systems below 45,000 Btu (below 4 Ton) must have a SEER2 rating of 14.3 (15.0 SEER) and 11.7 EER2 (12.2 EER). Residential central air systems 45,000 Btu and above( 4 ton+) must have a SEER2 rating of 13.8 (14.5 SEER) and 11.2 EER2 (11.7 EER). In addition, heat pumps in any region must meet 14.3 SEER2 (15.0 SEER) and 7.5 HSPF2 (8.8 HSPF) requirements.
After January 1st 2023 no unit in the southwest will be allowed to be installed unless it has a minimum seer and seer 2 rating
Air conditioning 15 SEER and 14.3 SEER2
Heat Pump 15 SEER and 14.3 SEER2
Package unit 14 SEER and 13.4 SEER2
SEER2 stands for Seasonal Energy Efficiency Ratio 2. Specifically, SEER2 is the total heat removed from the conditioned space during the annual cooling season. The new M1 testing procedure will increase systems’ external static pressure by a factor of five to better reflect field conditions of installed equipment. With this change, new nomenclature will be used to denote M1 ratings (including EER2 and HSPF2 )
M1 Testing Requirements
To meet new testing requirements, manufacturers are redesigning system components. In fact, all air conditioning and heat pump systems must be renovated by January 1, 2023, even if they meet current SEER ratings. In addition, matching components such as furnaces and air handlers will be redesigned to meet changes in the airflow setpoint. Depending on your region, additional field install equipment, such as Thermal Expansion Valves (TXVs), may also be required.
M1 Testing Procedures
The goal of new SEER2 testing procedures is to better represent external conditions seen in the field. Current SEER testing does not accurately emulate the influence of ductwork and external static pressure on HVAC products. Because of this, it is not often representative of real-world applications. By increasing systems’ external static pressure from current SEER (0.1 in. of water) to SEER2 (0.5 in. of water), new M1 testing procedures more accurately reflect current field conditions
Choosing the right air filter for your home can be difficult with all the different choices. We can help make your choice a little easier. The main reason why you have an air filter is to stop the indoor coil from gathering too much debris on it and clogging up the coil. If this coil gets clogged up the coil can not transfer heat like it was designed to do. The better the air flows across the coil the better the heat transfer. Depending on the filter and your home return air design, this can greatly impact the air flow across the evaporator (indoor coil). Filters have a designed MERV rating. The higher the MERV rating the better the filtration. If you’re wanting to help filter out your air from pet dander, pollen, or dust, you will want a higher MERV rating. The downside to this is that the high merv rating the faster the filter will be clogged up. Which will cause lower air flow across the coil and ultimately cause an issue with the unit not cooling correctly. There are Several options to over come this. First would be to change your filter more often. Some filter manufactures that say up to three months. This might be true if your air conditioner doesn’t run very often but in Arizona in the summer time its hard to avoid your ac not running. It seems like it runs non stop. The other option would be to have a thicker filter so you have more surface area. This would prevent the filter from becoming clogged as quickly. A really awesome way that doesn’t take any retrofitting is the https://zephyrfiltration.com/index.html .
The standard filter would be a fiberglass filter. It is see through and does trap the larger particles in the air but doesnt trap the smaller particles.
Merv 8 filters are standard pleated filters
Merv 11-13 filters are really good at trapping a lot of air bourn particles
Merv 16 are typically referred as a Hepa type filtration